Milk (Matthew Evans, Murdoch)

Dairy milk is an odd battleground for political polarisation, yet it always seems to be one. Milk is an attempt to make the case for that long-loved standard—cows’ milk—in the face of stiff competition from plant-based alternatives. Author Matthew Evans, best known as SBS’s Gourmet Farmer and a former restaurant critic and restaurateur, declares his bias from the get-go and remains there for the duration. Readers already in camp dairy will love this book; however, fans of alternative milk—almond, oat, soy and camel—may often feel patronised by the book’s messaging. Evans presents a lot of research in this book, and there’s much to learn, although it may have been more persuasive without that bias. Milk addresses many of the natural benefits and the complex makeup of milk, relying heavily on arguments for breastmilk as a superfood for babies. Other arguments presented by the author tend to criticise alternatives for their lack of complete nutrition or for being overly processed. Milk promotes grass-fed, traditional farming, which is disappearing globally, but doesn’t address the national dairy industry’s demolition by supermarket pricing. Evans touches on climate impact but does not examine the historical influence of the American meat and dairy lobby. Despite these missing pieces, Milk is a great read for foodies and farm-to-table lovers, offering a deep dive into the world of dairy, with insights that will spark discussions and reflections on our food choices.

Books+Publishing reviewer: Becca Whitehead is a features and content writer based in Naarm-Melbourne. Books+Publishing is Australia’s number-one source of pre-publication book reviews.

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